Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Leaving The Peaceful Pacific




Solitary anchorage in Mag Bay
12 days after leaving Ensenada we rounded the southernmost end of the Baja Peninsula and officially entered the Sea of Cortez. For 12 days we were without cell phone or internet access, had only one proper shower, ran out of milk, butter, fresh vegetables and bread, experienced excitement, boredom, sleep deprivation, sea sickness, awe, and exhaustion.
Deserted beach littered with seashells


Ready for the tourists in Cabo San Lucas





Yesterday afternoon, in a matter of minutes, we went from isolated beaches, solitary anchorages, and rugged, wind-swept coastline to the noisy, tourist oriented, jet setting city of Cabo San Lucas. 









Not only am I tired from the trip down the coast, but also suffering from culture shock and melting in the heat. It was quite an adventure and I feel as though I have much to tell but not the energy or the clear-headedness to tell it. So, forgive me if this is a jumble and all out of order. I do hope that you will find some parts of it at least a little bit interesting.


Dinner in Cabo






 In so many ways both large and small, this part of the journey was not at all what I expected. Mostly it was better, but there were times that I couldn’t get Anne Heche out of my head. You know, the line from Six Days and Seven Nights: “I’ve had just about as much vacation as I can stand!”

 

We talked to experienced cruisers before leaving Ensenada and got a lot of advice (some of it conflicting) about the next leg of our trip. It was both helpful and confusing. The night before we left we were given a precious gift from a fellow cruiser. Thank you, Pat, for “Charlie’s Charts”. It has been invaluable in our planning and has set my mind at ease time after time in knowing what to expect along the way.





We left Ensenada at 9:45 am on April 25 and after 24 hours of sailing and motor-sailing we anchored at Isla San Martin. We had planned on spending a night here but the island itself wasn’t that inviting and after breakfast and a brief nap we pulled anchor at noon and continued on. Winds were mostly light and from the northwest but most afternoons around 3 or 4 pm the wind would pick up to the high teens and give us a few hours of good sailing before dying down again overnight.
One of the unexpected things from my perspective was the light winds and the number of hours we had to run the engine. Our highest wind was on the 27th when we had gusts to 23 knots and 9 foot seas. For a few hours we were sailing at 8 knots but it didn’t last and most days the wind never topped 10 knots apparent.
From Isla San Martin we sailed to Islas San Benito where we spent 3 nights on anchor. The San Benito Islands deserve a post all of their own and right now I’m looking forward to an evening in town, so I will stop here and write about Islas San Benito tomorrow.

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